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Crossing the
Bahama Banks and the Gulf Stream |
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20 to 22 June 2006
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On Tuesday 20 June we set out for Cape
Canaveral, 48 hours on the high seas from Nassau. 40 miles across the Tongue
of the Ocean, (7,000 ft deep), onto the banks through the narrow NW Channel
between reefs and into 25 ft of water.
Anchored on the banks early evening
for fresh gujons of bluefish in tartare sauce, (caught 30 minutes earlier)
followed by beef stroganoff. Then across the banks, (70 miles) over Tuesday
night, emerging early morning Wednesday into the Atlantic again through a
narrow gap between Hen & Chicken Rock and Great Isaac Rock, marked by Great
Isaac lighthouse, (NOT WORKING!). As we came through the gap, we caught
three cero mackerels within 3 minutes, 2 on our two lines at the same time.
More fresh gujons in tartare sauce.
A very smooth ride so far in light winds, sailing NW into the Atlantic with
150 miles to go waiting for the Gulf stream to find us. Find us it did.
Winds gusting up to 24 knots, seas building to 6ft and we are on a roller
coaster ride at close to 10 knots for many hours into the night.
At one
point it became too much to handle so we decided to take in our foresail,
the genoa. The furler stuck! Geoff had to go up to the bow, strapped on,
with waves breaking over him to unwind, then rewind the furling line before
we could take in the genoa. Meanwhile the enormous genoa is flapping wildly
overhead. Are we adrenalin junkies or what?
Out of the Gulf stream at daybreak on Thursday and into milder seas and wind. |
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Cape Canaveral, Florida |
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22 June 2006
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Arrived in Port Canaveral 11am
Thursday 22 June..
Came into the marked entrance channel for Port Canaveral with all sorts of
activity around as a US Navy submarine was out there somewhere waiting to
follow us in. Coastguard boats, pilot boats and tugs all haring out past us
to meet him. Up the channel past the cruise ship terminal with an
interesting arrival into Scorpion Marina. Still no brakes. We survived.
Left Scorpions Marina on Friday 23rd June to go through the Canaveral
Barge Canal, leading to the ICW. This canal runs west from Port Canaveral,
through the 401 Highway drawbridge, then immediately through a large
commercial lock.
We pulled out of the marina in the afternoon and just made the last
bridge opening before the rush hour closure at 3.30pm. Timing has to be just
right with these bridges. They don’t want you going through until it is
fully open and they don’t want you hanging back and unnecessarily delay road
traffic. We can usually time it pretty well by juggling gear into reverse
when required. But we still cannot risk reverse, so it adds a little more
adrenalin into the moment. This bridge was easy, with plenty of space.
However the lock was around 500 yards beyond the bridge with an easterly
wind blowing us slowly towards it, while we waited for eastbound traffic to
come through.
It all worked out and we had drifted just to the point of decision when
the gates opened to allow the eastbound traffic out and us in. But, then we
had to accelerate to get into the lock and then stop inside. The wind was
still pushing us through. In the end we had no choice but to risk reverse at
idle. Even then, we had to stop the boat by using lines on cleats and we
came up against the heavy wooden pilings on the lock side a little more
firmly than hoped.
Once through the lock, the barge canal crosses the north-south Banana
River, and continues through Merritt Island to the north-south Indian River,
which is also the ICW. We turned north off the canal into the very wide
Banana River and anchored clear of some small islands half a mile north of
the canal.
From here we could see the cruise ships that come and go with great
regularity, plying their punters from Florida to some castaway island in the
Bahamas, on to Nassau to hit the gift shops and back to Florida.
Port Canaveral, Port Everglades at Fort Lauderdale and Miami are the main
cruise ship ports.
When the Disney cruise ships were preparing for departure, (Disney Magic
and Disney Wonder), we could hear the passengers being welcomed on board and
being wound up into hype with music and banter, very reminiscent of Club
Med.
Although we have avoided major squalls since Farmer’s Cay, there are
still some very heavy clouds and every day we have seen some rain.
Partly due to the amount of undisciplined weekend small boat traffic and
also to chill out, we stayed at the anchorage and watched the world and the
cruise ships go by for a couple of days.
This area is also popular with manatees, and some areas of the Banana
River are off limits to all propeller driven boats. We hoped to see some but
the water is a kind of dark camouflage green, so anything more that 3” below
the surface is invisible. We did see dolphins and we were constantly amused
by pelicans diving for fish all around us.
On Sunday 25th, we weighed anchor and turned south back to
the barge canal, and followed this west towards the Indian River. One more
drawbridge to navigate, (State Road 3). This one was not on request, we
discovered, but on a half hourly schedule, so we had to hang around east of
the bridge for 15 minutes. 10 minutes after passing through the bridge, we
emerged into the Indian River, again very wide, but with the deeper ICW
channel marked along the centre heading north-south.
We turned south through a fixed 65’ multi-lane highway
bridge to Cocoa Village, about 3 miles south and anchored there overnight.
We watched the Sunday afternoon boat traffic. There was ICW traffic heading
up and down the central channel, jet-skis playing chicken with each other
and other boats, jet-skis towing wake-boarders, macho guys showing off their
over-powered runabouts to bikini clad girls, with no knowledge of the rules
of the road or danger to other traffic. And then there were the inevitable
undeterred small sailing boats racing to and fro across the river through
this mêlée. |
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Cocoa
Village |
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Cocoa Village is a quaint little
place full of cafés and antique shops. There is a
wooden waterside walk with small jetties for dinghy mooring close to the
riverside parks. Probably the largest building in Cocoa Village is Travis's
Hardware Store. Founded in 1885 and now encompassing a number of buildings
joined together. This place is a real labyrinth and an Aladdin's Cave to
those seeking any kind of hardware. The people in Travis's went out of their
way to make us welcome and even offered to drive our empty propane tanks to
the filling station on two occasions at no cost. The shallows on both
sides of the Indian River are the only places where we have seen manatees in
the wild. The river is a deep greeny brown colour, so the view of the
manatee is usually the snout or tail fin above water. Occasionally one can
be seen just resting on the surface.
We have regularly sat on the boat and watched manatees, dolphins,
pelicans and ospreys while anchored at Cocoa.
Having been away from the news for a while we were surprised to find that
there would be a space shuttle launch on 1st July, the first for over a
year. Realising that our first anchorage in the Banana River was within
sight of the launch pads, we decided to return there and bag our spot before
the weekend.
Early morning on Saturday 1st, there were maybe 4 or 5 boats anchored in
the Banana River. By midday, there must have been 500. Everything from 2 man
dinghies to large cruisers, but mostly medium sized sports boats. It was
party time all around us. All the roads were blocked by traffic any access
from a road to the Banana River was covered in big RV's and tents. However,
by 3.35pm, the launch had been postponed due to cloud cover, and within an
hour, 450 boats had disappeared. We stayed put hoping that the launch would
go ahead the following day.
There were far fewer boats on the Sunday, probably because the weather
forecast was worse than Saturday, so few believed the launch would go ahead.
Again it was cancelled.
As Monday's weather forecast was also not good, NASA then delayed the
launch to the Tuesday, which just happened to be 4th July, American
Independence Day. This is the first time there has been a major launch on
4th July. We had already planned to be back in Cocoa for the 4th July as
there was to be some shore activity in the park, followed by an orchestra,
followed by fireworks. We did not think it wise to try to motor from the
Banana River between the shuttle launch and the evenings activities as the
waterway would be crowded. So once the crowds had dispersed from Banana
River, we returned to Cocoa.
There is a major road bridge just north of our anchorage which runs
east-west. Cocoa Village is at the western end of the bridge on the west
side of the Indian River. The other side of the bridge is Merritt Island.
The road continues on across Merritt Island, then over the Banana River and
on to Cocoa Beach.
Within the first three miles of Merritt Island is a West Marine marine
store, a Home Depot (the US version of B&Q), a Publix supermarket and a
major mall with restaurants and cinemas. So we have made the most of our
location and finished many pending jobs while waiting for our propeller.
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Fireworks and a Shuttle Launch |
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4 July 2006 Click on
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We made the right decision to stay
put at Cocoa. The Indian River is so wide and the land in Florida so flat,
that although we could not see the actual shuttle launch platform, we knew
we would see it very soon after take off beyond the bridge.
All morning on 4th we watched boats haring up the waterway to be closer
to the launch pad and we knew they would all be returning immediately after
launch. The launch was set for 2.36pm and we sat on deck listening to the
countdown process.
Within 2 seconds of launch we were able to see the shuttle. Although 14
miles away, it was very impressive. THE biggest firework of 4th July.
Unfortunately, within 30 seconds it disappeared behind the only cloud we
could see, so we missed the separation of the rocket boosters. The launch
was followed by horns from cars and trucks, horns on boats and people
cheering.
Then came the afternoon. We visited the waterside park to see what
festivities were under way, but soon had to run back to the boat before a
major squall came through. (This is the squally season in Florida with rain
and thunder almost every day). So we stayed on the boat and listened to the
activities and later the orchestra.
As the day passed, our anchorage of 10 boats grew to well over 200. And
boy, where they close! We watched in both dismay and amusement at some of
the anchoring techniques, (or lack of!). We had people anchoring in front of
us between our anchor and our boat. Those we managed to chase off. There
were boats drifting as their anchors were too small to hold in the mud
bottom and there was no room to lay down any scope.
And once again, it was party time. Patriotism was everywhere. Stars and
Stripes top hats, Stars and Stripes Bikinis. It was great to watch. The
Cocoa Village fireworks were scheduled for 9.15, but as soon as it was dark
there were displays going off all up and down the river. We could even see
enormous displays out on the Atlantic coast at Cocoa Beach.
Cocoa Village did themselves proud. They put on a tremendous display and
we had front row seats sitting on our deck chairs on deck with gin & tonics
in hand. Fireworks continued into the night but soon after the Cocoa Village
display ended, boats began leaving. Now that was really a nerve-wracking
experience. Many gallons of beer had no doubt been consumed and there were
some very scary moments. |
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Canaveral haul out |
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15 July 2006
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The repaired propeller was finally delivered and we arranged for haul out,
propeller re-fit and insurance survey on 15th July. Moved back to the Banana
River overnight on 14th, then through the Canaveral Barge Canal early on
15th.
All was completed within 2 hours sitting in the slings and a successful
survey report, so we decided to continue on to Brunswick the same day.
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Cumberland Island |
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16 July 2006 |
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Brunswick is approximately 190
nautical miles North Atlantic sailing from Port Canaveral. We set off at around 11am set for one
night at sea. However, the weather turned nasty with high winds and local
squalls, so late on the 16th we turned in to
the St. Mary's River Inlet and found shelter in the anchorage behind Cumberland Island for the
night. Continued on to Brunswick Landing Marina, now our second home, on
17th July. Decided to stay inland on the ICW, rather than heading off out to
sea again from Cumberland Island for the last leg.
The route took us through some very scenic shallow channels between the
marshes off the Georgia mainland and Jekyll Island, one of Brunswick's
Golden Isles.
Then out of the marshlands and into the wide Brunswick
River. Under the very impressive bridge, then in to East River, past the
shrimp boats and into the Marina.
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Brunswick Marina |
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17 July 2006
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This time, we managed to arrive in Brunswick Landing Marina without
incident.
Moved the boat into storage on Dock 6 with only 4 days available for preparing the
boat for the summer hurricane season before driving to Toronto.
Stopped en route during the drive to meet up with Bobbie & Gordon Blowers, (great friends we met in
Brunswick earlier in the year) near Richmond, Virginia.
One overnight stop
in northern Virginia, then on to Toronto. The usual Niagara border shuffle,
changing the US rented car for a Canadian rented car.
Four days in
Toronto, then, thanks to Geoff's son Simon who worked for Abu Dhabi based
airline Etihad at that, two really nice business class seats Toronto,
Brussels, Abu Dhabi, London. This may be seen as the long way round, but the
extra comfort was well worth the journey. |
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Link in Back in USA - Photos
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